BAXTER STATE PARK WINTER CAMPING
HANDBOOK
CONTENTS
GENERAL INFORMATION
First-time visitors are often stunned by the
wild remoteness and beauty of Baxter State Park
in winter. Percival P. Baxter, governor of Maine
from 1921 to 1925, sought to protect Katahdin
and the surrounding land for the people of Maine
for all time. Beginning in 1930, Baxter purchased
land and donated it to the state with the provision
that it "forever be left in its natural
wild state, forever be kept as a sanctuary for
wild beasts and birds, and forever be used for
public forest, public park, and public recreational
purposes." The park now encompasses 204,733
acres and includes eighteen peaks over three
thousand feet high.
USING THE PARK
Day Use
Day users are encouraged to check in at Park Headquarters in Millinocket to find out the latest information on trails, access, weather, and avalanche conditions.
- Below Treeline: Individual day users should sign in and out at Park Headquarters or at the self-registration boxes located at Park entrances.
- Skiing and snowshoeing: You can find excellent ski touring and snowshoeing near the major trailheads, but it is very difficult to reach any of the summits in a single day.
- Snowmobiling: Snowmobiling is permitted only on the Park Tote Road, which is not groomed. There are no warming huts, fuel sources, or other facilities along the route. The speed limit is 20 mph. Please use caution as the Park Tote Road is a multiple use area and there may be skiers/snowshoers traveling throughout the Park.
- Above Treeline:
- Winter mountain hiking/climbing: Parties planning to winter mountain hike or climb (travel above treeline or off marked trails, including ice or snow climbing) in a single day are subject to the same registration process as winter campers. Please read the Park's Administrative Procedures for Winter for more information. Permission for winter mountain hiking or climbing can not be granted over the telephone. Very fit skiers traveling in ideal conditions may be able to ascend Katahdin via the Abol Trail in a single day, but this is generally impractical because day users expecting to travel above treeline are required to register with the Park two weeks prior to the date of their climb. There are few if any ice climbs that can conveniently be done on a day-use basis, although there are a few moderate ice climbs near the Park Tote Road, such as those on the southeast side of Doubletop Mountain. (However, these routes also require crossing Nesowadnehunk Stream.)
Overnight Use
All overnight users between December 1 and March 31 are required to have campsite reservations. Please be familiar with group size, travel guidelines, and registration deadlines before you send in your request for reservations (see BSP's Winter Administrative Procedures). Reservations are issued on a first-come, first-serve basis. As the Park issues only a limited number of reservations for each campsite, lean-to, or bunkhouse at a given time, you should apply well in advance. Bunkhouse reservations, especially those at Chimney Pond, need to be made as early as possible. (Lean-to and tent-site reservations at Chimney Pond are usually available for those willing to endure the elements 24 hours a day; however, it is important to remember that no open fires are allowed at Chimney Pond at any time of year, and only the bunkhouse has a woodstove.)
Weather Condition Classification:
The weather classification system provides a daily weather and safety evaluation and sets park access or restrictions for the public. The daily coding system is based on current weather and projected weather forecasts. All users of Baxter State Park are urged to call or stop at Park Headquarters in Millinocket, or the closest occupied Ranger Station, for weather forecast and classification information.
TRAVEL AND TERRAIN
Travel
The weather in Baxter State Park can be severe
and it can change drastically. It is possible
to have a sixty-degree temperature shift and
eighteen inches of new snow within a twenty-four
hour period--or for rain to move in and shrink
the snow pack substantially. Such shifts can
dramatically affect travel. Trails may rapidly
become impassable due to heavy snow or they
may be flooded by high water. Wind above treeline
can make travel impossible. The wind can also
move large amounts of snow quickly, loading
it onto leeward slopes to create dangerous avalanche
conditions.
Simply put, winter travel will take longer
than summer travel. A basic rule of thumb is
to expect to travel approximately two miles
per hour in a small group, plus:
- 1 hour per thousand feet of elevation gain,
- 1 hour per mile for carrying a heavy pack,
and
- 1 hour per mile for trail-breaking in deep
snow.
Terrain
To Chimney Pond: People usually approach Roaring Brook, the first stop en route to Chimney Pond, on skis. Begin where the Golden Road crosses Abol Bridge and follow a well-marked ski trail along Abol Stream to the Park Tote Road. The Tote Road is usually well packed due to the frequent snowmobile traffic.
At the Togue Pond Gatehouse, you begin an eight-mile haul to Roaring Brook Campground on the Roaring Brook Road. Do not expect the Roaring Brook Road to be packed, as no public snowmobile traffic is allowed. Skiing to Roaring Brook with camping gear takes a full day. Parties are required to spend a night at Roaring Brook before heading up to Chimney Pond. Most parties carry their gear on sleds at least to Roaring Brook.
The 3.3-mile trail to Chimney Pond climbs 1400
feet along moraine deposits and over the Basin
Ponds. Many people use ski skins or snowshoes
on this steeper section.
In the South Basin: Chimney Pond lies in the South Basin, which is framed by Pamola Peak, Chimney Peak, the Knife Edge, Baxter Peak, and Hamlin Peak. Those wishing to hike to the summit of Baxter Peak should carefully consider starting time, weather, fitness, and the competency of the group as a whole in making the decision. All hikers must have, and know how to use, an ice axe and crampons. As in the summer, the Saddle Trail is the most common approach, but it should be noted that this route is exposed to avalanche hazard from the steep slopes to the south and west as one approaches the Saddle. The traverse across the Knife Edge to Pamola Peak and descent of the Dudley Trail make a superb, full-day trip, but the decision to take this longer, exposed route should also be carefully considered. Some groups use a rope for the short but steep section at Chimney Notch.
Climbers will find the greatest concentration
of ice and snow climbs in New England in the
South Basin. The Pamola ice cliffs offer several
difficult ice climbs. Most are Grade II, NEI
4+ or harder. Rappeling the route is usually
your best choice, although traversing off to
the left is possible. Expect the ice be hard
and brittle. Classic couloirs (gullies) offer
mountaineers several bottom-to-top routes of
varying difficulty and intensity. A straightforward
snow climb up the snow slope behind Second Cathedral
is one of the easier ascents leading to the
Cathedral Trail. When the Chimney is free of
avalanche conditions, experienced climbers sometimes
use it as a fast approach to the Knife Edge.
Dougal's Delight and Pamola's Fury are fine
full-day intermediate routes; the longer Cilley-Barber
and Waterfall Gully routes offer steeper ice
and snow climbing. All climbers doing long gully
climbs should start early and move quickly to
avoid being benighted, and should be prepared
for a night time descent, or for an emergency
bivouac if necessary.
Only expert backcountry skiers and snowboarders
should attempt the steeper snow gullies. Other
skiers and riders may find enjoyable and challenging
terrain on the lower slopes of the South Basin.
In the Great Basin: The south face of
Hamlin Peak in the Great Basin, adjacent to
the South Basin, sports several 30- to 40-degree
ski or snowboard descents. The best approach
to the top is via the Hamlin Ridge Trail; from
the bases of the chutes, you can ski the drainage
back to the Chimney Pond Trail. Intermediate
skiers and riders can find appropriate terrain
by ascending the drainage. There is sometimes
a hazardous cornice above this area.
In the North Basin: The more remote
North Basin is approached from Chimney Pond
via the North Basin trail to Blueberry Knoll.
Above, several rock and ice climbs ascend the
North Basin headwall. On the left, the 1000-foot
Taber Gully splits the face and provides a moderate
snow climb or a steep ski descent. This narrow
gully begins at 40 degrees at the top and then
relents to 30-35 degrees for the remainder.
Several other gullies are also attractive to
skiers and climbers. For skiers, the best approach
to the top gullies is via the Hamlin Ridge Trail.
As in all gullies, be alert for possible avalanche
hazards.
Katahdin, south side: The new winter
trailhead at Abol Bridge and the increasing
use of snowmobiles allow better access to the
south side of Katahdin. Most parties prefer
the Abol Trail because it ascends directly to
the summit. Trail conditions vary greatly from
deep snow to ice. The trail, which is in the
leeward side of the mountain, follows a landslide
path. There is significant avalanche danger
on this trail.
Although Katahdin draws the majority of winter
users, other areas in the Park are also attractive:
At Russell Pond: A trip to Russell Pond
is ideal for skiers and snowshoers seeking even
greater solitude and gentle terrain. You can
make a multi-day loop by staying at Trout Brook
or South Branch the first night, then heading
into Russell Pond for an overnight or two, then
heading back out via the Pogy Notch Trail.
At Nesowadnehunk Field: This mid-park
location is an ideal spot from which to hike
the Brothers or Doubletop. Winter visitors to
this area usually access the campground from
the west, driving up the Golden Road to the
Telos Road, parking cars at mile marker 35,
and skiing the 5.2 miles into the Park. Hikes
in this area will offer solitude and a chance
to see a wide assortment of animal signs.
At South Branch Pond: This campground
makes a nice base to explore the north end of
Baxter State Park. There are several nice mountain
winter hikes from the campground, including
South Branch Mountain and the Traveler, as well
as valley skiing opportunities and abundant
wildlife. The road into the campground from
the Park Tote Road features a dramatic downhill
run with extensive views south down through
the valley toward Katahdin. The cliffs overlooking
Upper South Branch Pond offer some ice climbing.
At Trout Brook Farm: The first campground encountered after the Park's northern entrance, Trout Brook Farm has a cozy 4-person bunkhouse as well as campsites in the field. It is in an ideal location for first-time winter campers to enjoy winter camping without being too far from the beaten path. Destinations from this campground include Matagamon Lake and a number of small peaks, including Trout Brook Mountain with its 360-degree views; campers also often camp at Trout Brook on their way to South Branch Pond if their plans call for a late arrival at the Park on the first day of their trip.
PARK FACILITIES
Bunkhouses are located at Chimney
Pond (capacity 10), Roaring
Brook (cap.10), Russell
Pond (cap.8), South
Branch Pond (cap.8), Trout
Brook Farm (cap.4), Togue Pond (cap.4), and
Nesowadnehunk Field (cap.4). These buildings are equipped with woodstoves and stocked with firewood, but have no propane lights or mattresses. The use of stoves and gas lanterns is permitted inside bunkhouses and cabins during the winter. Candles must be totally enclosed in a candle lantern.
Cabins at Daicey
Pond (two cabins with capacity 4 each) and Kidney
Pond (two cabins with capacity 6 each) are outfitted with woodstoves, firewood, propane lights, and mattresses.
Winter camping is permitted, by reservation
only, in any designated picnic area that has
a fire pit and outhouse.
Critters
Wildlife remains very active during the winter
months. Along the trail you are very likely
to cross the tracks of deer, moose, coyote,
red fox, fisher, otter, marten, mink, weasel,
snowshoe hare, red squirrel, mice, voles and
shrews. Squirrels, mice and the elusive pine
marten look for every opportunity for an easy
meal so put your food away carefully.
Group Size and Composition
Solo overnight trips and solo above-treeline travel are not permitted. For safety reasons, the minimum size for an overnight winter group in Baxter is three people at the roadside campgrounds (four people if the party intends to go to Chimney Pond, Russell Pond or anywhere above-treeline in the Park); to protect resources and minimize impacts upon other visitors, the maximum group size allowed is ten people.
It is recommended that people who sign up for
winter activities in the park have previously
camped or climbed together, as people who have
not done so make a weaker team. Each member
should have good equipment and solid winter
camping and traveling skills; each member should
be in good condition and have the mental fortitude
to deal with demanding arctic conditions; and
each member should be familiar with the physical
condition, limitations, and the experience of
other team members.
Anyone seeking to climb peaks in Baxter State Park should have mountaineering skills and avalanche knowledge appropriate to the intended route. Some of the routes are highly technical and demand a high level of performance. Experience has shown that even these qualifications do not guarantee safety or success. Winter camping and mountaineering require skills which can only be gained through education, mentoring, and experience. These skills, combined with the application of good judgment through a conservative itinerary and a willingness to turn back, are at the heart of a successful journey into the backcountry. Remember -- "success" does not just mean reaching your objective, it also means coming back with your whole party in one piece!
Mountain Guides
Some groups hire mountain guides to help them
achieve their goals; if you decide to do so,
seek a properly qualified guide. A number of
guide services currently offer winter trips
in the Park.
Getting to Baxter
State Park
Baxter State Park is accessible from Interstate
95. Those entering from the south side, including
those going to the Togue Pond or Abol areas,
should follow public highway Route157 to Millinocket
Lake, where the plowed public road ends. Take
the adjacent private logging road, called the
Golden Road, to a parking area located just
before Abol Bridge, being careful to avoid logging
trucks. Back behind the Abol Bridge Campground
Store and gravel pit, skiers and snowshoers
will find a marked trail to Abol Beach and the
Park Tote Road. Snowmobilers should follow the
abandoned public road back to the junction with
the Togue Pond Road.
Route 159, which leads from Patten to the north
entrance of the park, is plowed as far as the
Matagamon parking lot. The lot is about one-quarter
mile beyond the bridge over the East Branch
of the Penobscot River.
All visitors are encouraged to stop at Baxter State Park Visitor Center and Headquarters, off Route 157 in Millinocket (next to McDonald's). Winter hours are 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM, Monday through Friday.
LEAVE NO TRACE
Because so many people use Baxter State Park,
it is imperative that each person have as little
impact as possible. Please become familiar with
and practice the following Leave No Trace practices.
- Plan Ahead and Prepare: Before you
go, familiarize yourself with the area. Set
up and keep to a schedule, planning travel
times so that you can reach each destination
on your itinerary; you have a greater impact
when you make an unplanned camp especially
in an unauthorized site without facilities.
Smaller groups limit damage to the environment
and disturbance to wildlife and other users;
planning and camping are also easier. To reduce
uneaten food, pack meals that people will
enjoy, and plan for appropriate amounts. For
maximum solitude, plan your journey at an
off-peak time; school holidays tend to be
crowded.
- Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces:
Use existing trails when possible. Particularly
during thaws and above treeline, choose the
most durable surfaces available, such as rock
or frozen snow; avoid vegetation and gravel.
If you are traveling off trail, use a map
and compass; avoid leaving cairns, flagging,
or tree scars.
- Pack It In, Pack It Out (and properly
dispose of waste you can't carry out): When
you leave the park, pack out everything--extra
food (cooked or uncooked), trash, all your
gear (even if something has broken). Do not
cache food.
Human waste: There are outhouses in
every campground; use them, even if there's
a blizzard going on -- human feces and urine
next to the trail or cabin is unsightly, and
dangerous because it can infect drinking water
supplies. Along the trail, carry a poop bucket
with a few shavings that can be emptied at
the next outhouse. Don't leave toilet paper
along the trail -- carry it to the next outhouse
or to the trailhead.
Wash water: If you must use soap, use
a biodegradable soap in small amounts. Wash
at least 200 feet from your water source and
from camp. As you cook, collect food scraps
in a plastic bag; when you have finished washing
dishes and pots, strain the wash water through
a bandanna or piece of netting and put remaining
debris with the other food scraps.
- Leave What You Find Undisturbed:
Take pictures of interesting plants or rocks,
leaving them in place. Climbers should use
nuts or cams where possible, rather than placing
pitons for rock protection.
- Minimize Use of Campfires: Backpacking
stoves are recommended for cooking, as they
provide a quick, clean, lightweight source
of heat. The heat from a woodstove is generally
not adequate for cooking meals. Fires may
provide a psychological boost but are more
difficult to cook over and require more effort
to maintain and clean up. Cabins and bunkhouses
are equipped with woodstoves (with firewood
supplied by the Park). Be conservative with
firewood use, as the firewood supply must
last all winter.
All campsites (other than those at Chimney
Pond, where open fires are not allowed) have
existing fire rings. Open fires are allowed
only in existing fire rings. If you choose
to build a fire, clean up and pack out all
non-burnable debris such as aluminum foil.
Unless you are using firewood supplied by
the Park, collect only dead and down wood.
- Respect Wildlife: Observe wildlife
from a distance so you do not disturb animals
or force them to flee. To prevent disturbance
to wild animals, pets are not allowed in the
Park.
- Respect Others: Select equipment
and clothing in subdued colors. When sharing
a bunkhouse with another party, keep gear
organized and out of the way. Travel and camp
quietly.
WINTER HAZARDS
Avoiding Cold Injuries
Winters in northern Maine present long periods
of sub-zero temperature and periodic heavy snowfalls.
Strong winds can also add significantly to the
challenge, particularly above treeline. Fatigue
and dehydration are often precursors to accidents
and exacerbate all forms of injury. In this
setting, seemingly insignificant problems may
quickly grow into full-blown emergencies. By
dealing with low-level problems and constantly
anticipating potential difficulties, you can
prevent many cold-related medical emergencies.
Each member of the group should carry adequate
food, water, and clothing, and should be prepared
to manage an emergency.
Hypothermia: Hypothermia, which is often
called "exposure," occurs when the
cold overwhelms the body's ability to produce
and maintain heat. Hypothermia causes a progressive
deterioration of body functions and may lead
to death.
The cold challenge may consist of extreme cold,
high winds, or cold water--or, more commonly,
a combination of all three. Secondary hypothermia
may develop following an injury that renders
the individual unable to move enough to generate
heat.
To prevent hypothermia, maintain heat production
through adequate food, fluids, and activity.
You must feed your body's furnace if you want
it to keep burning. Equally important, you must
preserve heat by wearing clothing that both
insulates and shields the body from the outside
forces of cold, wind, and water.
Shivering, an early warning of cold stress,
is a compensatory response to help maintain
body temperature. You should recognize and act
upon it immediately to curtail subsequent problems.
Mild hypothermia is indicated by violent shivering,
a core temperature between 90 and 95 degrees
F., impaired fine motor function, and (sometimes)
confusion and the inability to care for oneself.
Treatment should be aggressive and focus on
improving heat production and decreasing the
cold challenge. Give a mildly hypothermic person
warm liquids, if possible, and high-energy,
easy-to-digest foods such as a candy bar. (Contrary
to popular opinion, alcohol will not "warm
you" and actually hastens the cooling process
through vasodilation.) If possible, replace
wet clothing with dry, warm, windproof clothing.
Urge the hypothermic person to exercise--jog
in place, jump up and down, run in a circle--to
increase the production of body heat. You can
increase heat externally by giving the person
a water bottle of warm water to place near the
trunk.
With severe hypothermia, people stop shivering,
as the body has used up its energy. They are
not alert and may not even be awake; they may
respond to your voice, or they may be completely
unresponsive. The core body temperature drops
lower than 90 degrees F. Rapid cooling is likely
if no intervention occurs.
Unlike mild hypothermia, the most important
treatment plan for severe hypothermia is gentle
horizontal handling. Keep the patient flat and
place him or her in dry clothing and a sleeping
bag as gently as possible. A vapor barrier such
as a bivouac sack is very useful in most circumstances;
it is critical if conditions mandate the retention
of any wet or frozen clothing. You may apply
warm bottles or heat packs to the core of the
body to minimize further cooling. Then, initiate
a plan for a gentle evacuation. With an evacuation
of less than 24 hours, further rewarming should
be done in a clinical setting, where medical
personnel can deal with possibly life-threatening
changes in body chemistry.
Frostbite: Frostbite is the localized
freezing of tissue. Ice crystals form within
and between the cells and grow by extracting
water from the cells. Physical damage is often
permanent, and long-term treatment for severe
frostbite may require amputation and extended
hospitalization. Although extreme cold exposure
alone can cause frostbite, the injury more typically
results from decreased circulation due to cold-induced
vasoconstriction, restrictive clothing, and/or
dehydration in combination with severe cold
and wind. The areas most often affected are
the hands, feet, and face. In the field, frostbite
may be identified as superficial (frostnip)
or deep.
Superficial frostbite is characterized by a
sensation of numbness and sometimes pain. The
skin is blanched and soft to touch. Immediate
recognition and rewarming will prevent further
freezing. Treatment focuses on sheltering the
exposed tissue in an armpit or a partner's belly,
adding or changing protective layers, or warming
through added external heat or increasing heat
production through physical activity such as
skiing or wind-milling the affected extremity.
In deep frostbite, the skin is white and hard
to the touch. The exact severity of damage cannot
be known until rewarming has occurred. The preferred
treatment for deep frostbite is rapid rewarming
in a warm water bath, but this treatment should
be attempted only when:
- further freezing of tissue can be prevented;
greater tissue damage occurs when frostbitten
tissues are thawed and then refrozen;
- water temperature can be maintained at 100
to 105 degrees F. until the frozen tissues
are soft and pliable (this may take up to
an hour); and
- the rewarmed area can be adequately protected
and will not be traumatized (for example,
by walking out on it).
If you cannot meet all three conditions, do
not purposefully rewarm; instead, evacuate immediately.
The frostbitten area may, however, spontaneously
rewarm due to physical activity, a night in
the sleeping bag, or changed environmental conditions.
Once thawed, the area should be protected and
treatment directed toward preventing infection.
Small amounts of dry, thin, clean cotton may
be placed between fingers or toes to avoid maceration;
this dressing should not cause further constriction
inside of a mitten. Preventing infection is
extremely important. Immerse the damaged area
every six to eight hours in warm water to which
an antibacterial agent such as iodine has been
added.
After rewarming, the extent of injury can be
determined. In superficial frostbite, the skin
is normal to reddish in color and slightly painful.
In deep frostbite, hope for the appearance of
clear, fluid-filled blisters indicating that
the underlying tissue is still alive and likely
to recover. Blood-filled blisters signify underlying
dead tissue. The most severe frostbite injuries
retain a deep purple color and are not followed
by any blisters.
Carbon Monoxide Poisoning
Carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning is a surprisingly
common threat in small winter shelters. Two
researchers on Denali, for example, documented
toxic levels of CO near the stove in tents,
snow caves, and igloos. It is important, therefore,
to cook only in properly ventilated areas, even
when in a building. In a tent, ventilation is
a function of the wind and the size of the vent
opening; it is usually best to cook in the vestibule.
In a snow shelter, the two- to three-inch diameter
vent should be located directly above the stove;
to save heat, you can close the vent when you
are not cooking.
Another factor in producing CO is the damping
effect on the flame of having the pot too close
to the flame and from condensation on the pot.
Keeping the pot warm and adding snow slowly
to warm water thus produces much less CO than
filling a pot with snow. Those cooking in shelters
should try to minimize condensation on the pot.
The symptoms of CO poisoning are grogginess,
confusion, and loss of consciousness. These
symptoms can be masked by--or misdiagnosed as--fatigue
or hypothermia. To treat, immediately remove
the victim from the confined area and instruct
him or her to hyperventilate in fresh air; mouth
to mouth breathing may be required for comatose
victims.
Water Purification
Because Giardia cysts persist in cold stream
or pond water, it is necessary to treat all
drinking water. Boiling is the most effective
treatment; it will kill all bacteria, viruses,
and protozoans (including Giardia). Iodine is
an acceptable treatment, although the water
should be warmed to sixty degrees to increase
effectiveness; however, iodine does not kill
Cryptosporidium, a protozoan. If you use a water
filter or purifier, be careful to protect it
from freezing.
SEARCH AND RESCUE
Lost control: Winter hiker
slides several hundred feet on snow on Abol
Trail; hits rocks and trees, resulting in
serious head injury.
Avalanche: Climber triggers avalanche
at base of Chimney, breaks leg.
Avalanche: Mountaineering party triggers
avalanche at base of the Cathedral Trail;
three injured, two killed.
Whiteout: Hiking party lost on plateau,
spends night out.
Stranded: Six accomplished mountaineers
bivouac above treeline on Pamola in storm;
five extricate themselves, one dies.
Snowmobile collision: Head trauma,
one person killed.
You enter the winter backcountry of Baxter
State Park at your own risk, and it is your
responsibility to minimize hazards by using
good judgment gained from experience and education.
Be prepared for self-rescue, and draw on the
skills of your group (and possibly the skills
of another party nearby) when confronted with
an emergency situation.
Only when all other options have been tried
should you request additional assistance. Do
not count on the Park to save you if you get
into an emergency situation. Park staff may
be hampered by the very elements (such as bad
weather) that caused your emergency. Staff must
evaluate the situation, determine the level
and urgency of the response, and initiate a
rescue when it is within the technical ability
of available personnel. Do not expect a helicopter
rescue; this type of rescue, which is both risky
and expensive, will be used only when medical
or technical demands warrant it.
It is unwise to rely on cellular phones or
radios in an emergency in Baxter State Park.
Due to the remoteness of the area, it is frequently
impossible to make contact. (Non-emergency use
of radios or cellular phones is prohibited within
the Park.)
AVALANCHES
Avalanches are common in Baxter State Park.
Many that cause serious injury or death are
triggered by the very people that they trap.
The Chimney, Saddle Trail, Cathedral Trail,
and the Cilley-Barber route are regular sites
of avalanches.
Parties that want to travel on or near steep
slopes must be able to evaluate snow stability
and avalanche hazard, and be able to initiate
a search if an avalanche does occur. Avalanche
knowledge, good judgment, and a careful approach
to route-finding are the key elements in avoiding
avalanches; stay away from situations that you
can't handle confidently and competently. Although
some avalanche victims describe themselves as
experienced mountaineers whose only mistake
was bad timing, lack of assessment and poor
judgment are more often the cause. Baxter State
Park rangers can often provide information on
current weather, recent snowfall, and reported
avalanche activity.
Each team member should carry (and be thoroughly
trained in the use of) an avalanche transceiver,
shovel, and probe poles. Carrying this equipment
does not protect you from an avalanche. These
tools simply help deal with a bad situation
after the fact.
All winter users should learn about snow safety
through field courses; it is also important
to choose your partners carefully. By taking
precautions you will reduce the risk of accidents
that are often the result of missed or ignored
clues.
Avalanche Red Flags
- Slope of 25 to 45 degrees (otherwise recognizable
as the best ski/snowboard terrain)
- Evidence of other avalanches (debris piles,
broken trees, obvious slide paths)
- Snow accumulation of greater than 1 inch
(2.5 centimeters) per hour
- Snowfall consisting of heavily rimed snow
crystals
- Steady winds that transport snow onto leeward
slopes
- Rapid temperature changes
- Snowpack temperatures around 32 degrees
F and warming
- Temperature gradient greater than 1 degree
F per 4 inches (10 centimeters)
- Rain that adds weight to and weakens the snowpack
- Buried layers of crust
- Persistent cold temperatures that delay
snow bonding and strengthening
- Gullies that have huge accumulation zones
(e.g., the Chimney, Waterfall Gully, gullies
under Cathedral Trail)
- Cornice formation at tops of gullies (often
visible from below -- check before ascending)
EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING
Please note: Baxter State Park requires certain equipment to be carried by all campers and day users who will be winter mountain hiking and climbing. For a list of required equipment, please read BSP's Winter Administrative Procedures.
Footwear: Temperatures often exceed twenty below zero for extended periods of time, so whether you are skiing, snowshoeing, or climbing, take footwear that is designed for expedition use and that offers the warmest possible rating. Backcountry travelers should use military vapor barrier ("mouse") boots or waterproof boots with removable insulating inner boots. Skiers and climbers should wear high-quality double plastic boots. Insulated single leather boots may be adequate on warm day trips, but should be avoided for extended trips. Boots should be fitted with sock layers and broken in prior to journeying in the park. Using an inner vapor barrier sock and outer gaiter or supergaiter will help keep the boot's insulation dry and provide additional insulation. At night, dry your feet and place boot liners in your sleeping bag to dry and prevent freezing.
Clothing: Clothing must be adequate
for the most severe conditions; follow the general
principles of layering to accommodate what may
be widely fluctuating temperatures. A moisture
transport and insulating layer should be worn
next to the skin. Insulating layers of synthetic
fleece or wool should follow. An outer layer
offering head-to-toe protection against wind
and rain completes the system. This layer should
be breathable to allow sweat to evaporate. A
large expedition-weight down or synthetic parka
with a good hood is essential for evenings in
camp and helpful for chilly belay ledges, and
insulated booties will make camp life more pleasant.
As a great deal of heat can be lost through
the head and neck, wool or synthetic balaclavas
or a hat and neck warmer are recommended. Hats
should fit under climbing helmets. Face and
eye protection against sunlight, wind, and snow
is essential for above treeline travel; goggles
are recommended.
Mittens are warmer than gloves; windproof and
waterproof shells provide added protection.
Spare pairs are always useful as are some wool
gloves for using around the stove.
Cotton clothing is not recommended as it loses
its insulating capacity when wet and takes a
long time to dry out.
Sleeping Gear: A good sleep hinges upon
being warm and dry. For those staying in tents,
lean-tos, or snow shelters, an expedition-quality
sleeping bag is essential. Down or synthetic
fiber filled bags should be rated to at least
-20 degrees F. Allow extra room in the sleeping
bag for clothing, inner boots, and a water bottle.
For those staying in a bunkhouse, a sleeping
bag rated from 0 to 10 degrees F should suffice.
In either situation, you can prevent significant
heat loss by using closed cell foam pads. A
combination of a closed cell foam pad with a
separate inflatable foam pad is comfortable
and commonly used.
Food: Food is your source of heat. Your
diet should include carbohydrates, which provide
quick energy; fats, which provide more than
twice the number of calories per ounce or gram
than carbohydrates or proteins; and protein,
which is used to rebuild muscles. Dry foods
such as pasta, rice, powdered potatoes, nuts,
dried fruit, and cheese are popular choices.
Prepackaged freeze-dried meals are very light
in weight. Minimize liquids and canned goods,
which can freeze, but bring plenty of drink
mix and instant soup mixes to encourage rehydration
after you return to camp. GORP--Good Ole Raisins
and Peanuts--is a high-energy trail food that
requires no cooking. (However, GORP made with
ingredients such as granola can be difficult
to handle on trail and often winds up on the
ground, feeding not you but the wildlife.)
Snowshoes or Skis: Each person needs
a pair of snowshoes or skis plus tools and repair
materials. Snowshoes should be sturdy with cleats
or crampons for steeper sections and side-hill
traversing. Skiing in backcountry conditions
is easier for the experienced; it is wise to
practice skiing with a heavy pack and sled before
arriving at the park. A telemark or alpine touring
set-up works well for those seeking a pure ski
experience. Climbing skins and extendable trekking
poles will be very useful. An extra pole in
each party often comes in handy.
Sleds and Haul Sacks: Many people prefer
to carry some of their gear in a sled or drag
bag. Providing that your harness system works
properly, you can easily haul a load of 30 to
40 pounds (13 to 18 kilograms). Lightweight
plastic sleds such as those found in department
stores are adequate and may be equipped with
a simple rope as a haul line; rigid traces made
of PVC pipe or aluminum conduit offer more control
when going down hills.
Stoves: The party should carry at least
two stoves of proven efficiency that work in
extreme cold, along with spare parts. If you
are using large pots for a group, use a stove
with a very stable base to prevent accidental
spills and burns. Before leaving home, take
your stove apart and put it back together. (For
added fun and challenge, put your mittens on
and stand in a cold shower and try it!) White
gas is recommended because disposable gas cartridges
are: less environmentally friendly, sometimes
difficult to obtain near the Park, and may not
be pressurized enough for the extreme cold.
Plan on 8 ounces (.30 liters) of white gas per
person per day if you are staying outside. All
fuel containers must be packed out.
Snow Shovels: A sturdy shovel is extremely
useful to clear out lean-tos, remove snow from
around tents, pile and hollow out snow shelters,
maintain the trail to the outhouse, and sculpt
snow kitchens. Those traveling in avalanche
terrain should carry several shovels per party.
Tents: Tents should be of four-season quality
and capable of withstanding wind and heavy snow.
A three-person dome tent with a rainfly provides
room for two people plus gear and allows extra
room for passing time if snowbound. A vestibule
adds a welcome measure of convenience and comfort,
and offers the safest place to cook. The tent
should have cords on each guy point (and the
tent should have lots of guy points); for maximum
stability, stake out each point with snow stakes
or "deadmen"(which can be improvised
-- for example, by filling stuffsacks with snow).
An extra pole section or pole splint and repair
materials are important. In case of tent failure,
be prepared with a strategy to build a snow
shelter.
Ice Axes, Crampons, and Trekking Poles:
If you plan to attempt the summit, each person in your party must have an ice axe and crampons. An ice axe that is 70 cm or taller is practical for non-technical climbs such as the Saddle, Abol, or Cathedral Trails. Consider using duct tape and closed cell foam to modify the grip area on the head of the ice axe to reduce cold conduction. It is critical to know how to use an ice axe to climb, descend, anchor, and self-arrest. Crampons should be adjusted to the boot and gaiter prior to leaving home. If you are on an extended trip, take spare parts. A trekking pole is not a substitute for an axe, but is extremely useful for ascending snow-covered trails; it also takes some pressure off the knees upon descent.
Eye Protection: Eye protection is essential
above treeline. Each person should have goggles
that will provide full protection against sunlight
and blowing snow. Glacier glasses may also be
carried, but do not afford complete protection.
Each party should carry an extra pair of goggles.
Medical Kits: All members of the party
should be familiar with the contents of the
medical kit. However, a first aid kit is only
a supplement to knowledge and skill. Those planning
to visit the Park in the winter would be wise
to participate in at least basic wilderness
first aid training.
Repair Kits: A basic repair kit should
contain a pair of pliers, a small screwdriver,
a knife, 50 feet of parachute cord, some duct
tape, a spare ski tip, patch material, and a
few bolts and nuts, as well as extra stove and
crampon parts. Ski parties should carry spare
binding parts suitable to the particular equipment
used.
Avalanche Transceiver (Beacon:) All
individuals venturing into possible avalanche
terrain should wear avalanche beacons. The standard
world-wide frequency is 457 kHz. People with
older 2275 kHz beacons should make sure that
someone in their party has a dual frequency
beacon that can pick up their signal. A beacon
must be worn close to the chest and turned on.
A beacon is useless if it is in your pack or
if party members are not familiar with search
strategies. A beacon is no substitute for avalanche
knowledge and cannot prevent a disaster.
Please note: Baxter State Park requires certain equipment to be carried by all campers and day users who will be winter mountain hiking and climbing. For a list of required equipment, please read BSP's Winter Administrative Procedures.
Recommended
winter checklist for day trips below timberline
in forests and on trails:
_ Heavy-duty day pack
_ Pack boots with wool liners such as mouse
boots, climbing or touring double boots appropriate
to mode of travel
_ Gaiters (high reaching)
_ Snowshoes or heavy duty touring skis
_ Insulating mittens
_ Insulating gloves
_ Mitten shells
_ Thin wicking sock liners
_ Insulating socks
_ Insulating balaclava that covers entire
head
_ Wicking innerwear top and bottom
_ Insulating jacket or sweater
_ Insulating pants
_ Light wind/rain shell
_ Wide-mouthed vacuum bottle or insulated
water bottle
_ Extra food
_ Sunscreen and lip balm
_ Trekking poles
_ Snow goggles
_ Personal first aid kit
_ Headlamp
_ Fire-starting material, including waterproof
matches (butane lighters can fail in extreme
cold)
_ Axe
_ Map and compass
__Shovel
__Avalanche transceiver and probe pole if
entering avalanche terrain
Recommended
winter checklist for camping trips
_ Large, sturdy internal or external frame
pack
_ -20 degree F sleeping bag
_ Insulating full-length ground pad made of
cold-resistant material; second half pad adds
a great deal of comfort
_ Pack boots with wool liners, such as mouse
boots, or climbing or touring double boot
appropriate to mode of travel
_ High gaiters or supergaiters
_ Snowshoes or heavy duty touring skis
_ Insulating mittens and gloves
_ Mitten shells
_ Thin wicking sock liners
_ Vapor barrier sock
_ 2 or 3 pairs insulating socks
_ Balaclava that covers entire head (with
spare)
_ Heavyweight insulated jacket or sweater
_ Midweight insulated jacket or sweater
_ Sunglasses with side protection
_ Snow goggles
_ Wicking innerwear top and bottom
_ Insulating pants with side zips
_ Light wind shell shirt
_ Waterproof/breathable jacket and pants with
side zips
_ Unbreakable bowl, insulated cup & spoon
_ Water bottle and thermos that are insulated
and wide mouthed
_ Headlamp with fresh batteries
_ Sunscreen and lip balm
_ Food for an extra day or more
_ Trekking poles
_ Personal first aid kit
_ Fire-starting material, including waterproof
matches (butane lighters can fail in extreme
cold)
_ Axe
_ Map and compass
_ Winter expedition tent per 2 -3 people
_ Haul sled or drag bag
_ Large contractor grade plastic bags
Mountaineers and peak baggers should also
consider:
_ Avalanche transceiver and probe pole
_ Heavy duty snow/avalanche shovel
_ Probe Poles
_ Snow study kit
_ Ice axe
_ Crampons
_ Helmet
_ Rope
_ Bivouac sack
_ Expedition weight down or synthetic jacket
_ Extra mittens and hat
Technical climbers should also consider:
_ Harness
_ Two ice tools and a third tool
_ A dry rope and second retreat rope
_ Anchors and protection appropriate to intended
routes
SELECTED READING
AMC Maine Mountain Guide. 8th ed. Boston: Appalachian Mountain Club, 2004.
Brady, Michael. Cross Country Ski Gear.
Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1987.
Cinnamon, Jerry. Climbing Rock and Ice: Learning
the Vertical Dance. Camden, ME: Ragged Mountain
Press. 1994.
DeLorme Maine Atlas and Gazetteer. 2004.
Daffern, Tony. Avalanche Safety for Skiers
and Climbers. 2nd ed. Calgary: Rocky Mountain
Books, 1992.
Gillette, Ned, and John Dostal. Cross Country
Skiing. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1983.
Goodman, David. Backcountry Skiing Adventures.
Boston: Appalachian Mountain Club, 1999.
Gorman, Stephen. AMC Guide to Winter Camping.
Boston: Appalachian Mountain Club, 1991.
Graydon, Don, and Kurt Hanson, eds. Mountaineering:
The Freedom of the Hills. 6th ed. Seattle:
The Mountaineers, 1997.
Hampton, Bruce, and Dave Cole. Soft Paths.
2nd ed. Harrisburg, PA: Stackpole Books, 1995.
Isaac, Jeff, and Peter Goth. The Outward
Bound Wilderness First Aid Handbook. New
York: The Lyons Press, 1998.
McGivney, Annette. Leave No Trace. Seattle:
The Mountaineers, 1998.
Prater, Gene. Snowshoeing. Seattle: The
Mountaineers, 1980.
Scee, Trudy Irene. In the Deeds We Trust.
Millinocket, ME: Baxter State Park, 1999.
Stokes, Donald. A Guide to Nature in Winter.
Boston: Little, Brown, 1976.
Wilcox, Rick. An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern
New England. 3rd ed. North Conway, NH: International Mountain Equipment, 2002.
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